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Zakopane is a town rather than a resort, with a pretty river
running alongside its bustling pedestrianised high street. There are four ski
areas spread out around the mountains surrounding the town, but there is no
area lift pass. Even inside the areas, it is often requisite to pay for each
ride on each lift separately. The most Alpine of the zones is Kasprowy Wierch,
a rocky crag accessed by a venerable 30-person, two-stage cable-car. As it can
just move 180 people per hour, the queues look interminable, though it is
possible to short-cut them by booking a time slot the day before. When you are
at the top, two efficient chairlifts maximize two decent runs with interesting
off-piste variants. The modern funicular on Gulbalowka is the best option for
intermediates, though they will need nerves of steel for the high-speed chicane
across the mid-mountain bridge. The hill has a half-pipe and night skiing, with
the train running till 9pm.
Novices will find a wide stretch of nursery slopes at Nosal,
but the main run is short, narrow, icy and unfriendly. Beginners would do
better to graduate to Polana Szymoszkowa, which has two modern chairlifts,
snowmaking and night skiing on flat, open pistes.
The luxury Belvedere Hotel, patronised by the Polish president,
serves good food in the penthouse Pod Aniolem Restaurant and long night time
driks in the subterranean U-Boot bar. The Litwor, centrally located and under the same
ownership, is of a comparable standard though less ostentatiously opulent. The
main street has a wide choice of bars, among them Seagrams Pub-Cafe where
draft Guinness is served.
© 2012 Tip Writer
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