Travel and Places: Ski Resorts in Poiana Brasov, Romania

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The purpose-built resort in Poiana is located 13km up the mountain from the medieval town of Brasov, on the south-eastern fringes of the Carpathian mountains. The random sprawl of hotels in the pine forests around Mount Postavaru is short on architecture and atmosphere, but the insides are pretty spacious.

Mount Postavaru is served by two cable-cars and a gondola, all ancient and all leading to the same spot on the shoulder of the mountain 750m above the resort. With the top station at a lowly 1,775m, the runs are cut from the forest and graded more on breadth than steepness, but all the colors are represented on the piste map. Any competent intermediate would exhaust the area in a-day, but having 68 instructors, many fluent in English, this is a cost-effective and enjoyable place in which to learn to ski.

The Kanzel pub, at the top lift station, could be just about the cheapest mountain restaurant in Europe.

In the absence of a village focus, the most convenient place to stay is the Sport, Bradul and Poiana complex, three well-run hotels under the same corporate ownership less than five minutes' walk from the Bradul cable car.

Most visitors have half-board packages that include dinner in their hotels, but the touristic Sheep-Cot is a top regional attraction, with bear steaks (which can be tough and overcooked) served at communal tables in a kind of folkloric Romanian yurt.

The pubs and cellar bars in Brasov are unexpectedly sophisticated, with a decent range of Romanian wines on offer. Festival 39 is recommended for its extensive cocktail list, while the Blitz Club, in a new brutalist complex away from the centre, is the late, late choice.

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