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Wengen has the upperhand of being the central link in the Jungfrau chain of resorts, sharing with Grindelwald the Kleine Scheidegg and
Mannlichen areas. The trip to Murren is arduous - one train going down to
Lauterbrunnen and two more up on the other side - but it is easier than from
Grindelwald. The short main street is filled with shops and hotels, the center
of a compact village that stretches up and down over the touching slopes.
Access is quicker from Wengen even though most of the runs
are on the Grindelwald side of the Kleine Scheidegg-Mannlichen ridge. Many of
the valley trains serve skiers in Wengen, then proceed up to Kleine Scheidegg.
The Mannlichen cable-car is much quicker, but is prone to queues in peak times.
Wengen caters nicely to complete beginners, bearing dedicated slopes covered by
two lifts close to the Mannlichen base station, while the mild return piste
from Kleine Scheidegg entails that they could have the gratification of skiing
from top to bottom in only a few days.
Wengen's gem is the men's downhill starting from the top of
the Lauberhorn, the longest and among the hardest on the World Cup circuit. It
is a red cruiser for holiday skiers, having an easy out round the steepest
part, where you'll encounter the notorious Hundschopf bumps.
The train going to Eigergletscher or the Salzegg draglift
opens up 3 rolling but mild black pistes, Blackrock, Schwarzen and Oh God,
which doesn't live up to its alarmist name. There are some serious off-piste
runs under the North Face of the Eiger, including the celebrated White Hare,
which starts at Eigerwand. Being quite avalanche-prone, they're rarely open and
must only be taken on with a guide.
The Hotel Jungfrau at Wengernalp features the best
restaurant on all three mountains, with a an expensive menu and a sun terrace
ruled by the North Face. The Grosse Scheidegg station buffet boasts fantastic
food at fair prices, but getting a free table is a different story. The Kleine
Scheidegg Tipi is famous for its grilled meat, jazz and geniality, backed by
free-flowing booze.
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