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Wildschonau, Austria,
despite its rather misleading nickname, this 24km-long valley is not really
that wild. This is the place where much of post-war Britain learned to ski, and to them
it remains to be good old Niederau: nice, undemanding (except for a couple of
underrated black runs), unassuming, friendly, peaceful (during the day) and,
unlike major Austrian resorts, reasonably cheap. You can expect smooth skiing
at neighboring Oberau, but high up at Auffach, around 7km away, the slopes are
somewhat extensive.
When in Niederau, hard skiers ought to head out for
Marchenwiesen, a fast, steep cruiser that gets down from the top of the
eight-person gondola at Markbachjoch (1,500m), and Tennladen, a steep black run
that starts out as a red at the top of the Mittermoosjochlift prior to diving
down to join Marchenwiesen. There are also 2 challenging, ungroomed ski routes
(Stock and Sixtwiese) on the front face. Farther in Oberau, you will not find
much tolet you stay, aside from the black Riedl run, and the same is true for
the two small, charming spots of Roggenboden and Thierbach. But Auffach, the
last resort in the valley, has a multitude of good, sweeping,
above-the-treeline red runs on the Schatzberg, and some delightful skiing in
wide gladed trails that goes back down to the gondola base.
The majority of the great restaurants in the valley can be
found in Niderau. At the base of the Arena lift, the Tennladen Stuberl draws in
the largest crowds, while the Panorama Hotel restaurant is a reliable
self-service option. The Anton-Graf-Hutte on the Lanerkopfl is an adorable old
place with a fine terrace that dishes out great dumplings and Kaiserschmarrn
(chopped-up pancake with raisins, icing sugar and plum jam). The
Markbachjochutte, aka Rudi's, is likewise a must, if only to try its specialty
dish, Germknodel (yeast dumplings made using brown butter, poppyseed or vanilla sugar and warm milk). At
Oberau, the Riedelhof dishes succulent wiener schnitzel.
Auffach has a terrain park along the Thalerkogel lift,
having jumps, rail, corners and a half-pipe. The snow park, above the Baby Lift
at Hornboden, also has a half-pipe. At Niederau's Race 'n' Boarder Arena that
you can get to using the Arena lift, you will find a boardercross course and
the Speed Track & Coin Up time trial.
Wildschonau, Austria Skiing Resorts
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